Space Suit Buckle

Although I realize the back of the buckle is stitched vinyl like the belt I wanted to create something a little more functional for quick changes. My husband 3D printed this buckle with a pass-through for the belt in back (someone has a similar version on Thingiverse, too).  Click here for more info and pricing on my Space Suit and its components. 

Riff's Tailcoat (Research)

Shawn A. speculates the tailcoat was cut down from a longer coat - and I find that theory intriguing. Perhaps cut down from a Frock coat of some sort (think Abraham Lincoln style of coat). Check out that wayward button way up there on his chest (and the dangling threads of buttons past).   Either way, here's some detailed photos from Mick (click to enlarge). Also great shot of the Winklepicker boots, his single spat, and the lacing on his right leg. And did someone split their pants?  Hmm.

Bruce M. believes it's a vintage tailcoat from the very early 20th century and has provided this example of a tailcoat pattern from that era. He says "If you look closely at the photos, you can see it was a vintage tailcoat, probably from about 1910's. It has the characteristic 'strap' on the tail skirt as and center front seam, typical of tailcoats made from about 1810 to the 1910's. It looks like it was probably made for someone slightly taller than Richard O'Brian, so a hump could go across the shoulders. The edge of the tail was either worn and/or distressed to look very used."

Space Suit Tabards (Research)

Todd D. emailed me this amazing rehearsal shot of the space suits sans wings! 

Space Suit Experiment

I've been dying to experiment with both this fabric (gold spandex) and my longarm (quilting) machine. I'm using some Warm & Natural batting I had on hand and a black Kona cotton backing. I stitched 1¼" squares with a 1½" unquilted border.

I updated my spacesuit pattern and it's available for free to download from my Google drive (below). If you print it on large format at Kinko's or Office Depot make sure it prints 100% to scale. If you need to resize it larger you can simply scale the whole pattern up, or you may need to modify the quilting to keep the squares the same size.

Space Suit Front 
Space Suit Back

Here's the materials I used for one tabard (of course coupon discounts and tax rates will vary):

My tabard pattern (~$7 for large format printing)
1 yd Metallic Foil Gold Spandex ($7.99/yd + tax & shipping = $17.16)
1 pkg Warm & Natural batting 45" x 60" ($19.99 + tax = $21.63)
3 pkg Wright's 7/8" Single fold bias tape ($3.99/ea + tax = $12.96)
6 1-1/8 Fabric covered button kit ($6.99/pkg + tax = $7.56)
2 yd Black Kona Cotton backing ($9.99/yd + tax = $21.63)
Large snaps (for neck opening and tabs)

= $87.94

You can see why it's not really feasible for me to make/sell these when it costs over $80 just to make the tabard without the belt and wings. There's not much room left for cost of labor.

I'm hoping to make separate blog posts for the belt and wings...

Space Suit Wings by Ruth

Years ago Ruth sent me a draft of her space suit wings. I finally got around to getting them uploaded and digitized on my computer. I recommend making a test pair out of paper or something so you can adjust the size accordingly. 

As for materials and maintaining the stiff wing shape, I leave that up to you to explore. Some people have used 1/2" sheets of upholstery foam with wire on the edges to shape. I've tried stiff interfacings and milliner's buckram with mixed results (once they get dented or bent they don't recover). I've even made 'disposable' wings with black garbage bags and cardboard and 1/8" craft foam, and just replaced them after several uses. 

A 5/8" seam allowance has already been added to both sides of the pattern. All you need to do is place the top end on the fold of your materials. Basically, your wings will look like a boomerang when laying flat. 

Click to download full size (22" x 35")

Visiting Embassy Park in Hamilton, New Zealand

 At the end of February 2020, before the world shut down, I traveled to New Zealand (and Australia) and got to visit the Riff Raff statue (erected in 2004) in Embassy Park. It's in the historic part of downtown Hamilton, and features a winding path down to the river. The public restrooms look like Frank's lab wall, and there are numerous film quotes throughout the parks (on walls, park benches, etc.)

As of October 2021 the statue is "temporarily on the move" until early 2024 while the city plans to redesign the Waikato Regional Theatre and Riff Raff's park.

Space Suit Quilting

This is my best estimate at the quilted pattern on the space suits.  Riff & Magenta's seem identical.  The red lines indicate where the space wings and belt cross (and partially obstruct) the pattern.

This scale works well with the quilted gold lamé sold by Hancock's (sadly, they went out of business in 2016), though you'll need to make custom adjustments for larger sizes.

There is something hard to discern on the lower back.  A kind of shaping, maybe?  The best I've been able to address it is to create a separate piece of quilting and overlay it.  You can view my research in this blog post.

Spiked Anklets (research)

Spurred by a conversation on FB, I remembered I had looked at this before and even bought the supplies to make one.  Riff and Magenta both wear a single, spiked gold anklet on their left ankle during the take-over scene.  It's not very easy to see in the film (maybe easier on the BluRay), but there is a great shot in the Mick Rock book (p. 257, though the photo is reversed).

They are probably about 3" wide, and pretty snug fitting.  There are 3 rows of metal spikes (1/2" or longer?) in a staggered array.  The leather base (or whatever) is edge-stitched

You could use vinyl, but you'll probably want to back it with something more substantial to support the weight of the spikes.

Riff Raff's Vest

White pique vest with rips, "dirt" and bloodstains.  I didn't take the rips and dirt too far because that's something that will look better with wear as it develops more naturally.  I mixed red and brown fabric paint to get a better "blood" color and brushed on make-up for the dirt. Three button holes, only the top is buttoned - seems like this changes throughout the scenes.  White pique vests aren't too hard to find on eBay for around $30, plus McCall's carries a very good formal vest pattern that also comes with a cummerbund and bow tie you can pass along to someone who plays Brad.

Boot Toppers (Revised)

I've revised my previous method for modifying a pair of space boots - still using the same fabrics (black PVC vinyl and silver stretch lamé) but also sandwiching a layer of heavy buckram in between with spray glue.  Then I cut my pattern out of all three layers and edge-stitch (about 1/8") along the zig-zagged side only.  I then peeled back the PVC and lamé to trim the buckram out of the base.

I attached the PVC to the outside of the boot first with e6000 glue.  Clothespins or hair clips will work great to keep things in place while drying. 

Once the PVC is secure on the outside I glue the  lamé to the inside of the boot.  Because the inside circumference is a little smaller, it might have a couple wrinkles.

Finally I roll the points down and secure them with clips for a couple minutes.  When they come out, the petals will retain a nice curve without the aid of a wire.

My pattern has also been revised with longer petals.  You can download the new Boot Topper.pdf from here.

Modifying Space Boots

I have revised my space boot method - please visit my new blog entry here: http://columbiascloset.blogspot.com/2011/05/boot-toppers-revised.html

I can usually find a good base for about $40 on eBay.  Ideally you want a black patent leather ankle boot with stiletto heels that has a center seam running all the way down the middle.  But if you can't find that, aim for something with a pointed toe and a straight top.

I made my points out of 2-way stretch black vinyl and silver spandex - the forgiveness of the stretch is what will make them easy to work with. After you've sewn the black and silver points together and clipped the points and turns, you can turn it right-side-out and you'll probably want to steam them flat (with a pressing cloth!).  

Now you're ready to attach the topper to the boots.  With e6000 (or your epoxy of choice) apply the wrong  (inside) of the vinyl to the outside of the boot.  Yes, there will be a seam, but it's not going to be noticeable.  Do not secure the silver fabric yet.  Go slow - I recommend only securing a couple inches at a time and waiting for it to dry before you proceed.

Then I took some 16 gauge craft wire and bent it into the same zig-zag shape (but rounded the cut ends so they wouldn't poke through).  I put a dab of e6000 at the top of each 'point' before inserting them inside the fabric.

When the points are secured, you can begin gluing the silver fabric to the inside of the boot.  Careful not to obstruct the zipper.  Once it's set, you can bend the 'leaves' accordingly. 

I've added my zig-zag pattern to the Pattern Page, and you can see the finished boots in my original Space Boot entry.

Space Suit Lower Back (detail)

I can't tell exactly what is going on the back of the space suits - you only get a couple seconds to see it when Riff approaches Dr. Scott. But it definitely looks dimensional and somewhat separate. So I created the piece and lined it separately before sewing it by hand onto the back. The top side is left open (like a pocket), but the other edges follow the grid.

Space Belt Buckle.jpg

Mitered wood dowels covered with several layers of fiberglass for a solid, hard shine. Buckle is backed with a cotton lining and strips of velcro and the belting is covered with a layer of clear vinyl that hangs over 1/4" past both edges (very hard to see in this photo) and has rows of metallic gold stitching. The dowels are 5" tall, and the buckle is 5-3/4" wide.

In the second photo showing the back with the velcro strips, you can also see the clear vinyl easier - and the belt is just tucked under a strip of velcro before being stitched down.

When stitching the metallic gold thread onto the vinyl you'll need a teflon foot.  The thread will break occasionally, but I had the best results when maintaining a very slow and consistent speed - no jerky starts and stops along the way.

Space Belt Dowels

I tried so many other materials for the mitered half-round dowels (including foam rods and hair rollers), but ended up using wood. My husband cut them because when I tried to cut them on the miter saw it made a lot of smoke and now I'm not allowed to use it. I coated them with 3 layers of fiberglass mixed with 2 shades of gold and a sprinkle of silver Jacquard medium. They clink now and feel nothing like wood. All I have left to do is make the piece they attach to - like the belting but wider.

Riff Raff's Vest (Research)

Two shots of the vest - buttoned in different holes. It's a common style and the textured fabric is called pique. The Tuxx Man sells them on eBay for about $32, or you can make one using McCall 4321 (you can also use the cummerbund pattern for Brad). I prefer paint or even nail polish to make the blood stains - but anything would work.

The shot on the right (from The Time Warp) also shows his suspenders.

Fiberglass Lightning Bolt

My awesome friend Alex has been teaching me how to work with fiberglass. I used this method to make an oversized belt buckle on a pirate costume, and about 30 seconds later realized I could apply it to some Rocky costumes. I can't wait to attempt the space suit buckle out of it.

The materials are pretty easy to come by - but the smell is vile. Worse than walking into an acrylic nail salon. You should probably wear a mask, protective gloves and eyewear. And you should probably do this outside or someplace well ventilated. The fiberglass resin is from the hardware store - and it comes with a tube of hardener. By itself, the resin will never harden.

I also added some pearl black jacquard pigment from the art supply store - you should see some of the metallic colors it comes in! Anyhow, you mix that right in with the resin. Once you add the hardener you have maybe 10 minutes to work with it. Sponge brushes are ideal, but a soft brush will work, too. For the most part, the mixture is self-leveling.

I applied it onto pre-cut shapes of 1/8" foam from the craft store (a.k.a. "Foamies"). I actually used the foam with an adhesive backing so the bolt would stay flat during the process - the fiberglass has a tendency to make the foam shape curl. It was dry to the touch in about an hour and then I did a second coat. I did the same on the back side and stuck a pin-back into the wet fiberglass.

Lightning Bolts

This is pretty straight forward if you can cut a straight line. Glue your shiny vinyl onto a sheet of 1/8" foamie with spray glue (I recommend the heavy-duty 3M stuff). In this instance, I'm using some pretty heavy-duty black vinyl - like the kind a vintage diner would upholster their booths with. I also prefer this vinyl because its cloth backing will adhere well to the foamie.

Trace your pattern onto the back of foamie (my bolt is about 3½" high and 2" wide). It's actually Ruth's design. Just make sure you reverse your pattern when you draw on the backside, so it'll be the right direction on the vinyl side! Trim very carefully - long fluid cuts, not chewed-up short snips.

Glue your pin-back on and you're done! I like e6000 - it gets between the holes of the pin-back real good.

Space Glove (WIP)

It's pretty easy to find silver costume gloves, but if you want to make your own, most of the major pattern companies have glove patterns - choose a basic style suitable for 2-way stretch fabric. Silver spandex is easy to find around Halloween time. You'll need a machine that can handle a very narrow seam allowance with precision.


I design my gloves to connect with the gauntlet by velcro on the back of the hand - you could also use a large snap. Once the gauntlet is connected to the back of the hand, it will feel wobbly, but stay very much in place.

For the gauntlet I cut a 13" x 13" square (I would go a little larger for men) of stiff vinyl and cotton lining. Then one corner is reduced to accommodate the hand.

Sew the velcro (or a snap) in place to the lining. Then with right sides together, sew up the shortened corner and turn right side out. Press (with a press cloth - never let the iron touch the vinyl). This will give you a finished edge around the wrist opening. Apply the gold extra-wide double fold bias tape across the long sides (sew or glue). Sew the gauntlet on the remaining shortened sides to make the "tube".

Space Boots

With a little patience you can find patent ankle boots on eBay for under $50. You'll need a small amount of black vinyl and some shiny silver fabric (I used what I had leftover from the space gloves). I used 16 gauge craft wire bent like a zig zag inside the cuffs - bending them out to curve will also help the wire stay in place. I used e-6000 glue to attach the vinyl cuff to the top of the ankle boot.

Space Gauntlet

These are actually pretty easy - the silver gloves don't need to be very long, and you can put a snap or velcro tab on the back of the hand to secure the gauntlet. They will feel floppy when you wear them because they stick out so far from the arm.