Here's some of the stuff I've made for Pride month - I started most of these weeks (months?) ago but had to wrap them up quickly. Don't be fooled, I'm still spending most of my days working on Space Suit commissions. Most of these will appear on stage in Austin and Houston, TX.
I've finally updated and digitized my Columbia tailcoat pattern. The sleeve and torso length can be easily modified for a more tailored fit. This is a Small; I'll have to do the Medium and Large separately (someday!) My poor paper patterns I made 15 years ago are so fragile. Once I digitize them I can print them out as often as I need.
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Shawn A. speculates the tailcoat was cut down from a longer coat - and I find that theory intriguing. Perhaps cut down from a Frock coat of some sort (think Abraham Lincoln style of coat). Check out that wayward button way up there on his chest (and the dangling threads of buttons past). Either way, here's some detailed photos from Mick (click to enlarge). Also great shot of the Winklepicker boots, his single spat, and the lacing on his right leg. And did someone split their pants? Hmm.
Bruce M. believes it's a vintage tailcoat from the very early 20th century and has provided this example of a tailcoat pattern from that era. He says "If you look closely at the photos, you can see it was a vintage tailcoat, probably from about 1910's. It has the characteristic 'strap' on the tail skirt as and center front seam, typical of tailcoats made from about 1810 to the 1910's. It looks like it was probably made for someone slightly taller than Richard O'Brian, so a hump could go across the shoulders. The edge of the tail was either worn and/or distressed to look very used."
Rubies makes a gold sequin tail coat for men (item 90872) and women (90871) that retails for about $250 - $300. They turn up on eBay fairly regularly as well as large costume companies.
I used to find the taffeta-backed version at Hancock's regularly until about 10 years ago. It was discontinued and doesn't seem to be coming back. I find a few bolts in random fabric shops online, but never any options of restocking. Magic Makers used to carry it regularly, but as prices went up he stopped having it manufactured.
Bright pink sequin bow tie - sequins seem to be on the front only. It's pretty easy to find a matching satin for the backside. Black band - looks like a scrunchy band of satin to me, but I've seen a lot of Columbia's use a black elastic sequin band for this and it looks fabulous. The added benefit of a satin band is that it won't get hung up on your tail coat's collar..jpg)
I'm not certain the top photo is actually from the film - but I think it was taken during filming (probably a Mick Rock photo?) The band definitely looks satin here to me - but if it's not from the film it could have changed (as other things did).
You can probably apply this method to most commercial tail coat patterns (the Costume kind). I cut a complete 2nd set of all pattern pieces for the lining whether the pattern calls for it or not. Lining your tail coat will extend its life. I only apply the black sequin fabric to half of the front lining pieces - no need to add bulk all the way to the side seams.
I bag-line my sleeves and tails separately, leaving the tops open to turn out. After you've turned them right side out you can attach the lining and sequin fabric together with a running stitch and there-after treat them as one-piece when setting them into the torso.
Columbia's sequin tail coat is made with 'skip-a-row' wavy lines of sequin trim - I've seen this fabric backed with chiffon or with taffeta, and both will work. In both versions the strands of sequin are applied with a chain stitch which makes the fabric vulnerable to snags. The lapel is the same sequin fabric in black. It has a black lining, probably satin. The tail coat is very fitted and has a high natural waist (ending above the bottom of her bustier) and the tails touch the back of her knees.
The direction of the sequins runs vertically down her sleeves, and vertically at an angle on her back where there is a center seam. They run vertically down her tails as well. They run at an odd sideways angle in front though, and there is a bust dart in the side seams.
This is a very common issue with the tailcoats - the fabric doesn't hold up for heavy use. But it's also super easy to fix. The sequins are attached to the fabric with a series of chain stitches. Once a thread snags the whole thing just pulls right out because there is no bobbin thread securing it. And because each running stitch secures more than one zig-zagging strand of sequins it's like a domino effect if you don't catch it right away.
