Columbia's Shorts - Zipper

Without any direct evidence for knowing how Columbia's shorts are zipped I have always made my shorts with a fly-style zipper for 2 reasons:

• The scoop pockets in front and applied pockets on back are very much like any blue-jean style pants - which typically includes a fly-style zipper. Why? Because the fitted nature of that style needs that flap behind the zipper to insures nothing gets zipped up into it. Ouch!  (Also; fishnets)
• I also can't see any evidence of a shiny plastic/metal zipper, despite the fact that the top of the shorts are very obviously pulling away from the center just below the waistband. If it was just a flat-zipper install that pulling would expose the teeth and we'd see something there. 

So in the absence of evidence, I would still recommend adding that fly-style flap so at the very least you don't get your fishnets caught in the zipper. Or anything else. 

Aside from some obvious stitching that runs across the red ribbon, you can't tell this has a fly-style zipper. Because even if it's not screen accurate your fishnets will thank you!

Guest Post: Columbia Shorts by Russ

Super excited to feature a guest post by fellow costumer Russ.  Be sure to click on the photos to enlarge - they have an amazing amount of detail! This method will definitely bring your shorts to the next level whether you are making them from scratch or simply trying to modify something off the rack.

It is my belief that in looking closely at the Mick Rock photos, the method used for edging Columbia’s ribbons reveals itself: overlocking/serging. This conclusion was drawn by several factors: First, the edging cannot be a 100% solid in color, since in practically all reference photos, even the far edges of the ribbon shimmer at times. This lends the idea that the edges are stitched in some way; with windows between the stitches allowing the base of the lamé to shine through. A rolled hem doesn’t create the right shape or thickness. Folded edges using a ribbon folder or overlaying a satin-edged organza ribbon creates too solid of a line for my preference and again this method does not let the lamé shine through on the edges. Upon further examination, the Mick Rock photos indicate an edging that in my view can only be achieved through overlocking. Note how the edging looks sort of rough and slightly uneven (Fig.1).
The material used appears to be a woven/satin lamé/sometimes called ͞lurex͟. The same type of lamé was used on several costumes for the Transylvanians as well (in particular, some of their lapels), which lends to the idea that there was plenty of this material to use during the construction of the costumes for the film. To test this theory, I cut a 5/8͟ wide strip of satin lamé, backed with a black fusible interfacing for durability, and fed it twice through my overlocker (knife setting should be off). It was a perfect match to the Mick Rock pics: creating a two-toned look with little flecks of the lamé peeking through the edging. Here is an image of some sample gold ribbon compared to a photo in the Mick Rock book. The golds are an exact match. My ribbon looks out of proportion, since it is closer to the camera but it is 5/8͟ wide, which I believe to be an accurate width (Fig.2). Furthermore, with the interfacing fused and stitched in, no amount of tugging in any direction was budging the ribbon’s shape or integrity; which means these are going to
last for many years.

Zipper Trick

Here's a little sewing trick for foolproof zippers: glue.  I always set my zippers with a light application of Tacky glue before I sew them in place.  That way they won't shift during sewing and will always line up perfectly.  Just be careful not to get glue on the zipper's teeth.  Tacky glue dries clear and flexible and will wash out.

Columbia Shorts

Finished pair of Columbia shorts with satin ribbon. They are high-waisted and the band is completely hidden by the bustier. The only time you can actually see the waistband is during "Touch-a Touch Me" and they are hanging in the back of the room. The cuffs are wider (and split) on the outside of the legs.

Columbia Shorts - Part 1 (Research)

Columbia's shorts have pockets like blue jeans - scooped low in front, and two pointed ones in back. There are no darts in front, and a single dart on each back piece (tapering behind the pocket). I've never found a pattern with all of these attributes, so be prepared to make some alterations. Blue Jean patterns offer a similar fit, but you'll probably have to remedy the horizontal panel above the back pockets and drop in a vertical dart there. 

 It's my opinion that her ribbons are all the same size, except the thin ones are merely folded in half. That's why the thin ones appear to only have one "edging". I've been able to duplicate the effect with a few rolls of scotch tape and coordinating colors of glittery fabric paint, but it is a serious pain in the ass. 

 Satin ribbons are durable, and by far the easiest to find. You can often find metallic ribbon in limited colors, but orange seems to be the most elusive. Metallic ribbons will not last as long - they are craft ribbon, and not intended for wearing. 

 Getting all the colors in order is exhausting. I started by looking at photos and cross-referencing the Anal Costume Site. Here's what I've come up - but I still recommend everyone should confirm their own research. 

Left Front Leg (Zipper -> Left Hip) 

Wide Red 

Narrow Green 

Wide Orange 

(gap) 

Wide Green 

Narrow Red 

Wide Blue

(gap) 

Wide Red 

Wide Gold 

Right Front Leg (Zipper -> Right Hip) 

Wide Green 

Narrow Orange 

Wide Blue 

(gap) 

Wide Red 

Narrow Green 

Wide Gold 

(gap) 

Wide Green 

Wide Orange 

Left Back Leg (Left Hip -> Butt Crack) 

Wide Green 

Narrow Blue 

Wide Orange 

(gap) 

Wide Red 

Narrow Orange 

Wide Green 

(gap) 

Wide Blue 

(gap) 

Wide Gold 

Narrow Green 

Wide Red 

Right Back Leg (Right Hip -> Butt Crack) 

Wide Gold 

Narrow Blue 

Wide Red 

(gap) 

Wide Green 

Narrow Gold 

Wide Blue 

(gap) 

Wide Red

(gap) 

Narrow Red 

Wide Mystery (Orange? Maybe?) 

Left Back Pocket 

Narrow Blue 

Narrow Green 

Wide Gold 

Wide Red 

Right Back Pocket 

Narrow Blue 

Narrow Green 

Wide Orange 

Wide Gold

Columbia Shorts - Part 2 (Pattern)

Once you've chosen a pattern, I recommend transferring it onto regular weight paper to work with. It's easier if you plan out your stripes in advance - consider their width and spacing. The placement of the stripes (but not the color order) is mirror-image on the front pieces, and back pieces respectively. I use 3/8" and 5/8" satin ribbon, though it's my belief all the ribbons are 5/8" width, and the narrow ones are simply the wide ribbons folded over because they only have one selvege.



When placing your stripes, I recommend gluing them down before stitching. They'll be straighter and won't shift around as you sew. You'll need to match your thread to your ribbon color. I find it easier to position all the ribbons, then sew them all on by color (so you aren't rethreading the machine & bobbin so much).