Columbia's Closet

Frank's Cape (Research)

2012-02-05T10:51:00.000-06:00

Frank's iconic cape is black satin lined with silver lamé. It has shoulder pads and there is pleating across the back under the collar to accommodate its fullness. My best guess is that hem is at least 12 to 15 feet around.

He keeps it closed across his chest with his hands, but if you're going to be doing a lot of walking around before your reveal you might want to consider a small closure at the neck.

The collar can be stiffened with buckram (available at most fabric stores, typically used for hat forms) and, if needed, a few well-placed pieces of nylon boning. The collar looks like it might have 5 obvious boning channels spaced evenly around.

When choosing your fabrics, consider two fabrics of a comparable weight. Otherwise a heavier fabric is likely to hang unevenly over its counterpart as it sags more under its own weight.

Simplicity Pattern #2499 has a nice 5-piece cape (6 with the collar) where the center back piece could be widened more to accommodate some pleating. I know on large-scale projects like this it's tempting to cut some corners, but make sure to cut your fabric on the grain as the pattern specifies or your cape will drape oddly, as well as pucker at the seams.

Frank's Dinner Corset

2012-01-19T15:03:00.000-06:00

It's easier to tackle if you break it down into 3 main elements; the corset, the chiffon blouse, and the overlay.

The corset:

Using the method described in my duct-tape pattern tutorial you can easily draft your own, custom corset pattern. Once the torso is wrapped simply draw on your corset lines with the appropriate dip in the center front and the rounded off bottom. Draw your intended seams and if you like, where the boning channels are. When you prepare your pattern from these pieces don't forget to add a seam allowance on all of your pieces. At some point I will try to post my actual pattern, but only in limited sizes.

Velvets are flimsy and slippery to work with. I recommend flat-lining your fabric with cotton (or whatever you prefer) to stiffen the fabric. I literally just spray-glue the back side of the fabric and lay it down on the lining fabric, thereafter treating the fabrics as one.

My seam allowances are stitched down to form channels for the boning, and the rest of the channels are created with single-fold bias tape. The top and bottom edges are also finished with single-fold bias tape, hand stitched to the inside. I opted for a side zipper - which won't change your seam allowance, but just be sure not to close up both side seams. Also, you won't want to put boning against the zipper, but I do have boning on both sides of the eyelets in back.

The blouse:
You might get lucky on eBay or a thrift store, otherwise you can use any simple tunic pattern. Simply adjust the neck hole to be an oval and have the blouse open in back. I bind off my neck opening with narrow double-fold bias tape for a clean edge. Chiffon is another flimsy, pain-in-the-ass fabrics to work with. For the back opening I just wrapped a 1" strip of the embroidered tulle around the edges. I stitched down the soutache loops about 1" apart, catching them twice with the edge stitching on the tulle.

If you have a hard time finding black shoulder pads, just cover white ones with black fabric.

The hardest part is attaching the blouse to the corset - you'll definitely need a person or a dress form to get it lined up all the way around. I pinned mine together about every 3" inches, then I hand-sewed it together from the inside along the top edge of the corset - right into the bias tape.

The overlay:
I've sometimes found silver on black lace at the store which works well, and I also sell the overlay as a separate piece. If you're really dedicated you could actually hoop some tulle and sew the flowers yourself with metallic silver thread.

Like the blouse, it will be easier to line it up if it's on a person or dress form. I apply it with a simple running stitch by hand all around the edge. You could also secure it with a few discreet dabs of fabric glue - careful not to let the glue bleed through other layers below.

The 9-patch rhinestone buttons are fairly easy to find, but the 6-pointed stars and black-leaf sequins continue to elude me. The rest of the rhinestones I just apply with Jewel-glue.

Frank's Dinner Corset (Research)

2012-01-18T22:05:00.001-06:00

The Anal Retentive Costume Site has posted amazing photos of the actual dinner corset they procured at the 25th anniversary convention in Vegas (hey, I was there!). For the longest time it was generally assumed the corset was black. Turns out it's a dark purple paisley print - but the velvet doesn't reflect much light. If you are going to use a paisley print, the darker the better. Otherwise, black will still look nice on stage, and is much easier to find!

The corset looks to be 8 panels; 2 center front pieces, 2 side front, 2 side back and 2 center back. The boning across the front is incorporated into the seams and supplemented in a fan-pattern across the four front panels. The top has subtle curving with a slight dip in middle and a more pronounced dip across the bottom.

The back part of the corset has 4 panels with boning in the seams, and an extra bone on the side back pieces at an angle. 8 sets of eyelets, flanked by more boning on each side of the eyelet channels. The lacing looks pretty much like black shoelaces knotted at the bottom and tied at the top.

The blouse is chiffon with a wide, rounded neckline. It has black shoulder pads and rips in the armpits and the left elbow. You could probably modify a store-bought top for this purpose.

The back part of the chiffon blouse has, by my count, 11 small 2-hole clear buttons. The button plackets are treated with the same embroidered mesh as the floral overlay. The button loops are black soutache, but elastic cording will also work (and fray less). At the end of the scene it looks like the chiffon has ripped away from the button placket.

The overlay is a series of large flowers embroidered with silver metallic thread. The overlay begins over the right shoulder, crosses down the chest and ends under his left breast.

Scattered around the entire top (mostly the chiffon blouse) are rhinestones, 9-patch rhinestone beads, some black "leaf shaped" sequins (hard to see, look on his right breast), and some 6-pointed star rhinestones (I have yet to ever find these).

Columbia's Tail Coat (Research)

2012-01-06T18:02:00.000-06:00

Columbia's sequin tail coat is made with 'skip-a-row' wavy lines of sequin trim - I've seen this fabric backed with chiffon or with taffeta, and both will work. In both versions the strands of sequin are applied with a chain stitch which makes the fabric vulnerable to snags. The lapel is the same sequin fabric in black. It has a black lining, probably satin. The tail coat is very fitted and has a high natural waist (ending above the bottom of her bustier) and the tails touch the back of her knees.

The direction of the sequins runs vertically down her sleeves, and vertically at an angle on her back where there is a center seam. They run vertically down her tails as well. They run at an odd sideways angle in front though, and there is a bust dart in the side seams.

The lapel is attached so that the gold sequin fabric continues underneath the black and the piece simply folds open. The tails overlap so that the right one is on top. I think there may also be darts in the back centered above each tail. There are 6 black buttons - 2 above the tails, and two on each front panel positioned at an angle from the center front corners.

I have blog entries on modifying a commercial tail coat pattern, and on maintaining the delicate sequin fabric.

2011 Year In Review

2011-12-29T22:24:00.000-06:00

It's been a crazy-busy year! Apparently, I need to hire elves (and not just so I'll finally be the tallest person in the room). Thank you everyone who has supported me, recommended me, ordered from me and even just liked my Facebook posts.

Photo Credit: Ryan G.

4711 was my 3rd convention to attend, but my first time having a booth. I am ever grateful to my husband for helping out because it was so much crazier than I anticipated. I enjoyed meeting so many people I had only known online (for years!) and seeing people wearing my handiwork. I was also blown away by the Boss Award. Because beyond making costumes I want to be able to help others make them. I don't believe there is just one "right" way to make something, and I hope some of my solutions have helped others. I love getting comments and feedback on other methods as well, and I especially cherish the emails I get from people who tell me my site has helped them.

Home Of Happiness

In the fall I visited The New York City cast and New Jersey's Home of Happiness cast. I got some pretty fun photos trying out my new camera. My favorite is Paulie (in the dinner corset I made him) clobbering Peda-Bear and the look on Shawn's face. Peg from Long Island's Unconventional Conventionalists joined me on my trip to the Medieval Festival at the Cloisters - something I had wanted to do since high school. A huge thank you to Dana (and Marty McFluffypants) for her hospitality and escort services (did that sound dirty??)

I also added quite a few new pieces to my repertoire, most notably including Brad's khaki jacket, Frank's dinner corset and most recently the floorshow corset. In 2012 I'm hoping to tackle Frank's red floorshow corset, his green lab apron and Magenta's dinner sheer. What would you like to see added?

Also in 2012 I plan to attend the TCJ2 Con (with a booth). I'm planning on driving this time so I can haul even more ~~crap~~ wonderful offerings! I may also make it to the Last RockyCon in September. I'm looking forward to the new year and I hope it's as awesome as 2011 has been.

See you in 2012!!!

XOXO,

Mina

Modifying Patterns

2011-12-29T22:01:00.002-06:00

Specifically this post is about altering an existing corset pattern, but you can use the same technique to modify any other commercial patterns that need a little tweaking.

Supplies:
Tru-Grid Graph Material
Colored Markers
Pattern to Modify
Tape (optional)

My workspace already has a gridded cutting mat on it, which makes it really easy to line everything else up. Most pattern pieces will mark the natural waistline, which is an excellent place to start. I laid out all my pattern pieces across the table in the order they are sewn to each other, lining up the natural waistline. This gives you a sense of the garment's overall shape; how high it comes in the front, how low in the back, etc. You may want to tape the pattern pieces down so they don't shift.

Next I placed my Tru-Grid Material (which is somewhat transparent) on top of my pattern pieces. You may also want to tape this down. I began with a red line all the way across my Tru-Grid to define the waistline. If you want to lengthen or shorten your pattern this line will be crucial. Next, I traced out the original pattern in the size I chose. If you're between sizes, you can even mark those changes now (i.e. size 14 chest, but 12 waist). You will also want to transfer the supplemental lines for boning and all the pattern notches (triangles) on your new pattern.

All that's left to do is redesign your pieces. I recommend using a different color marker than you used for the original outline. For the floorshow corset, I recommend straightening out the top across the bust, and shortening the bottom to get the right effect (their corsets of course are worn completely backwards and upside down). I also lengthened the lower back of mine. For men, I would reduce the severity of the curved seams.

The instructions are generally the same,except you'll want to put eyelets where the corset busk would normally go in front, and a zipper up the back.

Floorshow Corset

2011-12-27T16:55:00.000-06:00

Here's my first proto-type floorshow corset. I used cotton coutil covered with a bottom-weight satin. The edges are bound in double-fold satin bias tape. 13 grommets (set with an industrial setter) and a zipper in the back. It has poly-boning because it is not intended to be tight-laced - as a zipper simply is not suitable for the strain of a tight corset, though it should still be quite snug. The poly-boning is what you'll find in most store-bought bustiers and is easy to replace. At some time in the future I may be able to offer a more expensive, steel-boned corset - but with a zipper it would still be unsuitable for tight-lacing.

Columbia's corset ties at the top (pictured), though everyone else's ties at the bottom. I used an assortment of flat and faceted sequins - though I'm glad to accommodate anyone's preference on the matter. The sequins are glued on with jewel-it glue, though some people may prefer to sew theirs on themselves (that's a bit beyond my level of patience).

Janet's Proposal Suit (Pt. 2)

2011-12-01T12:20:00.003-06:00

I have an earlier blog post that discusses the Proposal Suit in general terms, but this one will be more in-depth. I use a polyester gabardine for the shell (outside fabric) and a thin poly lining. Gabardine presses well, is easy to spot clean and generally wrinkle-resistant (though I wouldn't put anything past a Rocky performer!)

You can use any jacket pattern with princess seams - you'll probably need to crop the length and perhaps extend the front to overlap more. And I definitely recommend lining it. Lining will extend the wear of your garment, in addition to the aesthetic benefits and most importantly; no obvious hem lines.

Prep the sleeves and collar first. Attach the sleeve shell and lining at the wrist with right sides together, then fold lengthwise and close the length of the arm. Trim excess at the wrist seam, turn right side out and press. Marking the front and back of your sleeves at the shoulder will make it easier to line them up. Be careful that you don't end up with two of the same facing sleeves! There is a difference - the back is cut to allow the arm to move forward and accommodate the back expansion (like when you hug someone and your shirt pulls tight across your back).

Next, assemble your garment shell (outside fabric) and lining separately, but do not close the side seams. Attach the collar to shell, then attach the lining. At this point you can attach the lining all the way around - but leaving the side seams open. That means you'll stitch across the front bottom, up the center front, around the collar, back down the center front and across the second front bottom. And across the bottom of the back.

Clip and grade the curves in the collar, and clip all your other bulky intersections and corners. Turn everything right side out and press.

Now you can close up your sides seams. Treat the shell and lining as one. If you have access to a serger you can run it along the edges, otherwise a zig-zag stitch would be fine. Press. Closing the side seams in this manner will make it easy to alter if ever you need to.

Then finally set your sleeves in. Sleeves are designed to be eased in. That means the sleeve itself is larger than the hole it's being fitted into. Easing a sleeve gives the shoulder a little more room for movement. However it looks like in this case, all the extra ease was just pinched into a pleat at the top of the shoulder. So when you pin your sleeve in place, lining up the underarm and side seams, just work the excess to the top of the sleeve.

You can serge (or zig-zag) the inside of your armscye, but definitely trim it down and remove some of the bulk

My aforementioned blog entry also details the button placements, and putting snaps under them will make it easy for the quick-change. I use 1-1/8" covered button kits from the local fabric store.

Spiked Anklets (research)

2011-11-21T11:21:00.000-06:00

Spurred by a conversation on FB, I remembered I had looked at this before and even bought the supplies to make one. Riff and Magenta both wear a single, spiked gold anklet on their left ankle during the take-over scene. It's not very easy to see in the film (maybe easier on the BluRay), but there is a great shot in the Mick Rock book (p. 257, though the photo is reversed).

They are probably about 3" wide, and pretty snug fitting. There are 3 rows of metal spikes (1/2" or longer?) in a staggered array. The leather base (or whatever) is edge-stitched

You could use vinyl, but you'll probably want to back it with something more substantial to support the weight of the spikes.

Crim's Jacket (Research)

2011-11-02T09:36:00.001-05:00

Spurred by a recent conversation on Facebook, here is my research on Crim's velvet jacket. It's a pretty average gray color with wide black (or daker gray?) lapels. The back of the jacket has a center seam and side vents.

The sleeves has three matching gray fabric buttons at each cuff. The jacket has only one button high across the waist, and it looks like it's a double style where the other button should theoretically go through another buttonhole on the other side. He has a welt pocket for his white handkerchief on his left breast. I'm sure there are people who have studied this far more than I have and welcome any comments below.

It's usually not too hard to find a vintage sport coat pattern on eBay - the collar is easy enough to extend, but look for the vents in back.

Columbia's Tail Coat Buttons (Research)

2011-10-28T09:38:00.001-05:00

Columbia has 6 buttons on her tail coat. ~~They're just black fabric~~ I think they might be hard plastic? I'll check the BluRay.

On the back they are placed just above the seam where the tails are. The right tail overlaps the left one considerably and you could use that as a guide for placing the buttons.

Then there are two on each side of the front. Beginning with one in the lower corner a couple inches above the hem, and then placing the next one a couple inches up and out from it - to account for the angle of the lapels opening up.

Since the gold sequin fabric is notoriously delicate, I recommend sewing the button all the way through the the lining as well. And if you're missing any buttons from a coat I've made you just let me know and I'll ship you a replacement!

Columbia's Magazine (Research)

2011-10-22T21:00:00.005-05:00

Several years ago (2005) I started searching through past issues of Movie Life magazine to try to find the exact issue Columbia is reading when Dr. Scott rolls through her room. The project... grew. I have a spreadsheet of every issue from 1956 (when they changed their title to the all caps font) through the end of filming (1974). I marked off every issue that I checked, as well as which ones had similar color schemes. In fact, I eliminated 94.7% of all issues in that time frame.

With the BluRay I could see a few more details - like Bobby Darin's name above the title. This narrowed my time frame considerably. I knew I was looking for something between 1958 and 1964ish. My spreadsheet was only missing 3 issues in that time frame - and bam! It's April 1961. And apparently quite rare, so I won't get my hopes up of finding one. But if I ever do, I promise that I'll have the cover reproduced to share with all the Columbias of the world!

I bet somebody else already knew this, right? Larry? Ruth? I'm sure I did this the hard way. Either way, I'm sharing what I know now (because surely someone else was clueless, too!)

Magenta is reading 'Movie Mirror' - also from April 1961. Both magazines have articles about Bobby Darin.

Papal Hat Cut-out

2011-10-18T19:26:00.000-05:00

In honor of Susan Sarandon's Papal remarks, I submit for your amusement a paper party-hat to cut out - great for Frank to wear in the dinner scene! Enlarge until lower edge is 1/2 of head circumference; print two. Tape lower sides together. Embellish.

New Patch Series

2011-10-18T15:55:00.000-05:00

Over the past few weeks I've added new embroidered patches. The Roxy patch was first - and it was actually a design I had played around with a few yeas ago when I first got my first embroidery machine. The Riff was second - and it's kind of a combination to get the right effect. The window shape and lightning bolt are screen grabs from Over At The Frankenstein Place, but Riff's face is actually pulled from the door scene (wasn't sharp enough in OTFP). Frank was hard. I really wanted a Frank design, but a lot of the images just weren't translating well for me (his hair was often a problem). Sometime after Halloween I'll try to get more characters represented. I'm also working on a custom design for a cast, and if that turns out well might be something I can offer other casts.

Janet's Sweater (Research)

2011-10-15T18:46:00.000-05:00

Janet's cardigan sweater is white; though yes, it does look blue-ish in some scenes presumably because of the lighting. Also, if you're watching an older print red is usually the first color to fade and that can have an effect on how the colors look - especially white. It has raglan sleeves (diagonal seams from the armpit to neck instead of a shoulder seam), rib knit cuffs turned back and a ribbed hem. I counted 8 buttons down the front (2-hole). I think they're clear? The sweater's hem is just above her wrists.

It's a simple enough design that you can usually find at a Thrift store or even on eBay with enough perseverance.

Dinner Corset Overlay

2011-10-09T17:06:00.001-05:00

This was commissioned, but I'll soon have just the embroidered overlay for Frank's dinner corset to purchase separately. I used metallic silver thread on black tulle. Because tulle is so holey I used a black tear-away stabilizer that is still visible under the petals, but once it's laid over the black dinner blouse & corset it will be completely invisible. I recommend just whip-stitching it to the blouse by hand.

Thank You HoH & NYC!!

2011-10-03T19:26:00.001-05:00

I had a blast seeing everyone and meeting new friends. So many people to thank - Dana for carting my ass around and letting me stay with her, Peg for an incredible day in the park, and the entire NYC and Home Of Happiness casts for the warm reception and introductions! Here are some photos I took - the rest are all on my Flickr album. I'm sorry if I missed anyone, but I will be back!!

NYC:

HoH:

My Thoughts On Costuming

2011-09-29T19:19:00.000-05:00

Since I have a big ol' costume site, I thought maybe I'd share my (personal) costume philosophy. It's not meant as an appeal to anyone - and I don't believe there is a right or wrong way. I love screen accuracy. But I also love effort and inventiveness. A costume doesn't have to say "I spent $800" if it says "I spent a lot of time creating this!"

Rocky Horror is a hobby, and hobbies cost money. Buy what you need to and make what you can. I think even the smallest budgets can create great things if someone is willing to put in the time and effort. That's why I share a lot of my methods, patterns and research. I think a Frank corset made out of black duct tape and cut into to the right shape would look quite impressive compared to a flimsy lace negligee from the thrift store.

Me as Columbia, September 2006

In most cases, I'd start from the character's opening scene. If you can nail your entrance you'll grab people's attention, and they'll be more forgiving of your short-comings later on.

As for a budget? If you're getting in for free, I would set aside at least the cost of a ticket price every week/month. If you enjoy people paying that much to see you perform, then it's pretty reasonable to invest that much in your performance. At least.

Custom costumes are great - but they can be expensive. Figure out what you can start with, and what you can upgrade later. Sometimes you can even recover some of your costs by selling off your starter costumes and put that money towards your upgrade.

And finally, don't forget the details. They will set you apart! Maybe you can't find the perfect Janet barrettes, but you can still cut up white cardboard or foamie and stick it on a bobby pin. I've used nail polish to paint the blue stripe on Columbia's ring.

It helps if you're on a cast that shares the same philosophy. It's a lot more fun to share the stage with other people who are as invested in a good-looking show as you are.

NYC & NJ Visit!

2011-09-27T10:21:00.001-05:00

I'm excited to be visiting the NYC and Home of Happiness casts this weekend! I may be renting a car at some point to get around between NJ and NYC - I haven't figured that out yet.

Here's my trip itinerary -
Friday, Sept. 30th
5:30 PM - Land at Newark
8:00 PM - Dinner with the NYC folks at Blossom (thanks Patti and everyone!)
10:00 PM - Drinks... somewhere?
12:00 AM - Rocky Horror at the Chelsea Clearview Cinemas
2:00 AM - Spending the night with Dana.

Saturday, Oct. 1st
12:00 PM - Possibly renting a car. I'll spend the afternoon visiting the garment district and tooling around lower Manhattan. If anyone would like to do lunch in that area let me know!
8:30 PM - Dinner with HoH cast at Veggie Haven (thanks Dana and everyone!)
12:00 AM - Rocky Horror at the Bellevue Theatre in Montclair, NJ

Sunday, Oct. 2nd
12:00 PM - 5:00 PMish - Medieval festival at the Cloisters (free!)
7:00 PM - Dinner, anyone?
9:00 PM - Drinks? Karaoke?
2:00 AM - Spending the night at Newark Hilton

Monday, Oct. 3rd
11:00 AM - Return to Houston

Reproduction Pajama Fabric

2011-09-22T09:33:00.005-05:00

Click to enlarge.

Zephyr Goza (of the RKO Army cast in Rhode Island) sells custom-printed blue-striped fabric for making Columbia's Pajamas. The print looks pretty dang close to me. It's on knit, which is pretty durable stuff and easy to launder. A basic pajama pattern (like McCall's 5992) will use about 3-4 yards. Just make sure you get enough to lay everything out in the direction of the stripes. Check out more photos in the original LiveJournal posting.

Width: 56"
Price: (unconfirmed)
Shipping:
Contact: zephyrgoza@yahoo.com

Columbia's Pajamas (Research)

2011-09-12T10:41:00.007-05:00

The pajama top is very plain - no piping around the collar or front edges and no cuffs. There a large rip across her left shoulder flanked by smaller rips, a couple smaller rips above her right breast, and I think about 3 small rips in a row below her right breast towards the center. The collar is squared off.

The pants are a bit odd. They definitely have two cords hanging down in front that would indicate a drawstring, but in Touch-a you can clearly see a side opening. I don't think it's a rip. I actually don't know what the hell it is - in the frame-by-frame I can't even see a clearly defined waistband. The leg length looks shortened to capri length with just a simple hem, again no cuffs.

Someone in the Rocky community has reproduced the striped fabric, and if I find the page I will post it - but it's on knit (and I believe her Pajamas to be the straight up traditional cotton kind).

Pajama patterns are common enough - just remember if you're cutting out stripes you may need extra yardage to lay everything out in the right direction.

Edited To Add: Cosmo's Factory uploaded more amazing screen-caps from the Blu-Ray with incredible detail. Thank you so much!

Frank's Garter Belt (Research)

2011-08-11T15:34:00.000-05:00

Frank's garter belt seems to be a basic rectangle, probably decreasing in the center back where it closes. The top and bottom edges probably have some kind of elastic or channel on them, and there seems to be lace over much of the edge - torn off above his front right thigh.

The straps seem two-toned (good luck finding that) with adjustable clips (you can pilfer off a thrift store find) and silver garter clips with white rubber nubbins.

The lace looks quite faded and almost like a charcoal gray next to his black undies. It has a medallion and diamond motif.

Brad's Jacket Zipper

2011-08-05T17:15:00.001-05:00

A tip for setting perfect zippers - position them precisely how you want with glue! Line up your ends, and any details floating across the middle, and use a water-soluble glue (I use Tacky) to set it exactly where you want. Once the glue is dry you can sew it right into place and it won't move or shift around. It also helps to press your seam allowances under before gluing. In this case I did the lining separately on the inside, too. Once both sides were set with glue, I stitched the zipper in place securing the fabric and lining all at once.

Frank's Lab Apron (Research)

2011-07-31T14:31:00.002-05:00

Frank's lab apron is a great project for a beginner sewer. Very simple tunic open in the back - no darts, no zippers, no buttons. The collar has a slight "funnel" shape to it, and it looks like the facing was applied to the inside and stitched down on the outside.

There is a rectangular strip of fabric running across the front of the tunic at his natural waistline - a tie runs through it, crosses in back, then ties in front. There are also ties at the back of his collar and the middle of his back.

The sleeves have ties on the inside, attached somewhere around the bicep - they are just left dangling. You don't need to put any cuffs on the sleeves since they are rolled up - just finish the edges with a rolled hem.

I recommend a light-to-medium weight cotton fabric. If you can't find the exact shade of green, cotton will dye wonderfully (other blends may not).

Nail polish or acrylic paint works great for the blood stains. The triangle can be appliqued as an iron-on with Heat-N-Bond, or just stitched down (you know how much I love my adhesives). He's got some repaired rips on the front and back.

Buying Corsets

2011-07-20T10:39:00.002-05:00

Corsets have exploded in popular culture over the last 2 decades and it seems like everyone and their sister began making them to sell online. I've taken issue with a lot of these products so I figured I would give the run-down on what to look for (or ask about) since price is not an indication of quality.

Fabric

Corsets can be made with any fashion fabric on the outside (i.e. Satin) but should have coutil on the inside. Not twill. Not duck. Unless there is a legitimate reason for cutting corners, and the savings are passed on to the consumer, a reputable corset maker should be using coutil.

Coutil has a herringbone weave that alternates the direction of the weave to create a stable fabric that will not lean over time. Look at your twill jeans or slacks and you'll notice the weave continues in one direction. Under stress it will begin to give (disproportionately) in that direction. That being said, you could make a Twill corset if you stacked two layers in alternating directions - convenient for the home-costumer - but still poor practice for a reputable corset business.

Boning

You have 3 types of boning: Rigilene/plastic, steel, and spiral. You can buy the Rigilene stuff at your local fabric store and it's generally intended for bodices and strapless dresses. Under pressure the Rigilene will bend and warp, but it's also easy and inexpensive to replace. The flat steel stays seem to be the most common in commercial corsets - but I've seen those become permanently flexed in a short amount of time. Spiral bones are the best, but are the most expensive and require special equipment to cap the ends before using.

All that being said, once you drop a zipper in the back of a floorshow corset it doesn't really matter. Zippers are not designed for horizontal stress any more than the aforementioned Twill fabric. So now you pretty much have a lace-up bustier. And if you're going to drop a zipper in a corset you may as well use a cheaper fabric and plastic/replaceable boning that's cheaper (and easier to dance in).

Fitting

This one haunts me in my sleep. Corsets are usually sized about 2" less than your natural waistline. So if you have a 26" waist you may consider buying a 24" corset. Historically corsets were worn over a chemise so the body wouldn't soil it. Now it's acceptable to have a piece of fabric behind the laces - especially when worn alone. Ideally a corset should leave no more than a 2" gap between the lacing. If the gap is more than 4" your corset doesn't fit you. Not to mention how unsightly the flesh between the laces is.

Finally

Know what you're paying for. If you're buying a professional-made corset you want to make sure you are getting your monies worth. If you are making your own costume for floorshow it's fine to use affordable options so long as you understand the corners you are cutting.

Magenta Dress Pleats

2011-07-05T14:29:00.003-05:00

You can easily incorporate pleats to any commercial shirt-dress pattern of your choice. Draw three parallel lines directly on the pattern about an inch apart - I'd probably put the first line about 1¾" from the pattern's center front.

Cut on the 3 lines you drew on your pattern and lay the pieces out carefully with about 5/8" gaps between the pieces. Use the pattern's waist line to keep them lined up evenly because the shoulder and neck lines will appear uneven. I recommend taping down the pieces once you have them arranged. With a tracing wheel and transfer paper, mark the center of each gap from shoulder to hem. This will be the line you fold your fabric on to stitch down your pleats. Sew your pleats just over ¼", then press (away from center front).

I finish my edges with single fold bias tape. I tuck the loops into the edge about 2" apart. The buttons are sewn closer to the pleats than the edge.

Sequins on Frank's Sweet T Corset (Research)

2011-06-24T20:12:00.000-05:00

This is my research for choosing the sequin colors that I did (see previous post: Embellishing Frank's Corset). I also looked extensively at the photos in the Mick Rock book. There may be occasional specs of gold, but mostly I see silver - the blurry frame actually makes it easier to see the colors. It's one of those things where it just comes down to your own interpretation and preferences. There is no right or wrong; it's all subjective. Do your own research and trust your own judgment.

Embellishing Frank's Corset

2011-06-20T12:23:00.002-05:00

I made this in the wrong size so it became a perfect candidate for a demo. There is boning down the center front, and some additional boning in the side fronts (though it looks like Tim's no longer has any boning there, it's just to help it last longer and wear better). The underarm seams are left raw to expose the white lining, though you could bind them if you prefer.

I used black, fuchsia, dark blue, teal and silver sequins in the smallest size (I would avoid red and gold). I applied liberal dots of glue all over concentrating the density closer to the edges. Initially I placed one sequin on each glue dot. Then realizing at that pace I would be at it for the next 14 hours, I decided to dump a handful of mixed sequins onto the glue drops, shake it all around, and let the sequins cluster naturally; it looks more natural. I would imagine a performer may need to repeat the process as needed - I'm sure over time they may start to flake off. But I think that's what is going to give it that "worn in" look that Tim's seems to have.

I think mine could use even more embellishing!!

Janet's Hat (Research)

2011-06-15T22:21:00.004-05:00

I've seen Janet's style of hat referred to as a "Breton", which is a broad term for a hat with a brim that rolls up. Hers is presumably felt with a narrow binding and a chiffon band tied into a bow in back.

The brim looks wider in front, and the crown acquires some dimples every time she puts her hand on her head, but I don't think the hat actually has any dimples by design - it's just a plain round dome.

The chiffon band looks pleated around the base of the crown, and then there seem to be 4 bows and two tail ends that come to a point

Look carefully in the second photo and you can also see some sort of hat pin through the chiffon band on the center front of the hat.

ETA - a hatpin is a decorative pin for holding a hat to the head, usually through the hair. A hatpin would have an entrance point (typically in back) and an exit point (typically the crown).

Transylvanian: Kimi Wong (Research)

2011-06-12T17:39:00.000-05:00

I'm hoping to get through most of the Transylvanians, but I'm starting with Kimi because I've been working on this costume for myself. Her tailcoat has burgundy peak lapels, and she has a 3-button white vest with wide, curved lapels. Her lilac-purple shirt has french cuffs trimmed in lace, and I believe the buttons on the cuffs also have tassels. Most of the Transylvanians have satin shirts, but hers isn't. Her bow-tie is purple velvet - but looks quite dark in most of the film. The Mick Rock book has the best photo of this, along with her red lucite rings and red rhinestone necklace.

Her hat is the most difficult. It's kind of like a green miniature sombrero with a maroon band around it. You're only options will probably be to make something yourself or improvise. I attempted to deconstruct a braided straw hat and reshape it, but my initial efforts came out too big. So then I just put an elastic strap on a green juicer. Bring some vodka, we'll have a party.

Eddie's "Baby" (Research)

2011-06-03T11:17:00.003-05:00

I'm pretty sure the letters are cut out of some kind of leather (vinyl?) then applied to the jacket (as opposed to painted on). There are toy skeleton pieces in the first B, the A and Y (the skull is on his slingshot).

I'm uncertain where the top of the letters disappear into the fold/collar/hair, but I have a basic template that should work well. I have also attempted to compensate for perspective in my template, but it's not to any particular scale - you'll want to save the image and figure out dimensions relative to your jacket.

I would recommend is 3M's Super 90 spray adhesive. Spray the back of the letters and place carefully. It should hold it for a very, very long time.

Frank Gloves

2011-05-30T19:55:00.003-05:00

First prototype of Frank's gloves - fabric provided by Paul D. It was actually an easy fabric to work with - it curls a little, but doesn't fray at all. I trimmed out the wrist opening with bias tape on the inside. Fingers may need to be shorter still, but hard to tell on my mannequin arm (yes, I have a mannequin arm laying around; you can find anything on Craigslist)

Riff Raff's Vest

2011-05-22T19:49:00.003-05:00

White pique vest with rips, "dirt" and bloodstains. I didn't take the rips and dirt too far because that's something that will look better with wear as it develops more naturally. I mixed red and brown fabric paint to get a better "blood" color and brushed on make-up for the dirt. Three button holes, only the top is buttoned - seems like this changes throughout the scenes. White pique vests aren't too hard to find on eBay for around $30, plus McCall's carries a very good formal vest pattern that also comes with a cummerbund and bow tie you can pass along to someone who plays Brad.

Magenta's Dinner Sheer (Research)

2011-05-21T21:31:00.000-05:00

There is definitely a seam going across the middle of the back - and it looks to me like it continues all the way around to the front as though the entire top of the dress is a separate piece. There is also a seam from the armpit to the waist seam. I cannot determine if there is a seam across the shoulder, but it wouldn't be necessary since there is already a seam under the arm. I also don't think there are any ties - probably some sort of hook & eye sewn into the waist seam (where it would have strength) or perhaps small snaps. In the second photo, it even looks like there could be a black button there? I just can't tell.

The front edge and hem do not look they have been hemmed or edged in any way, except for the sequins that begin somewhere behind the neck, come down the left side and around the hem for a bit.

I have tried extensively to create this in one continuous piece of fabric - but the visual (and logistical) evidence doesn't support it, in my opinion.

Crim Ascot

2011-05-03T17:07:00.010-05:00

This is my best guess at the design on the Criminologist's ascot. It's probably soutache stitched down, but since I don't have that kind of patience I worked mine out on the embroidery machine. The result is not as dimensional, but embroidery has one advantage: precision. Especially when you're dealing with a symmetrical design.

I experimented with both (this) red and burgundy velveteen, but the red shows off the design much better. Look for this on my In Stock page, or contact me for purchase. I have also provided my design on my Patterns page. You could easily create it with fabric paint, ribbon, or even sequins.

Supplies:
1/2 yard red velveteen
1/2 yard lining (I used cotton)
2 large black round gems
1 package assorted black rhinestones
2 black tassels
1 package black seed beads (hand sewn around the bottom edges)
e6000 or Gem-Tac glue

Zipper Trick

2011-05-02T00:16:00.002-05:00

Here's a little sewing trick for foolproof zippers: glue. I always set my zippers with a light application of Tacky glue before I sew them in place. That way they won't shift during sewing and will always line up perfectly. Just be careful not to get glue on the zipper's teeth. Tacky glue dries clear and flexible and will wash out.

Boot Toppers (Revised)

2011-05-01T13:28:00.000-05:00

I've revised my previous method for modifying a pair of space boots - still using the same fabrics (black PVC vinyl and silver stretch lamé) but also sandwiching a layer of heavy buckram in between with spray glue. Then I cut my pattern out of all three layers and edge-stitch (about 1/8") along the zig-zagged side only. I then peeled back the PVC and lamé to trim the buckram out of the base.

I attached the PVC to the outside of the boot first with e6000 glue. Clothespins or hair clips will work great to keep things in place while drying.

Once the PVC is secure on the outside I glue the lamé to the inside of the boot. Because the inside circumference is a little smaller, it might have a couple wrinkles.

Finally I roll the points down and secure them with clips for a couple minutes. When they come out, the petals will retain a nice curve without the aid of a wire.

My pattern has also been revised with longer petals. You can download the new Boot Topper.pdf from here.

Columbia's Collar

2011-04-26T10:43:00.011-05:00

Here's what I used to make this:
1 External Tooth "Lock Washers" 1/4"
10 External Tooth "Lock Washers" Size #10
1 Knurled Nut Size 6-32
1 Screw size 6-32x3/8 (to secure the knurled nut)
10 Rhinestone Rivets 7mm
1 Jewelry Ring (about 5/8" diameter)
1 Jewelry ball with hole through it
1 Buckle (I used size 5/8")
Strip of leather cut 5/8" wide x 20" long (or you could use vinyl if it's thick enough to hold the rivets)
Gold spray paint (because most of these parts are silver)
1/8" Drive Hole Punch
3/16" Drive Hole Punch
...and a hammer

I cut my leather just a smidge over 5/8" with a rotary cutter and straight-edge, then I edge-stitched it on my machine with heavy-duty thread and a size 16 needle (I actually have a leather needle, but couldn't find it anywhere!!)

To install the jewelry, I made 11 holes with the 1/8" drive hole punch spaced 3/4" apart - the ring goes in the middle, and then 5 rhinestone rivets on each side. Each rhinestone has a size 10 lock washer behind it (painted gold).

The center ring-piece is assembled as follows: 1/4" lock washer on the bottom, then the knuted nut with the ball glued to the top and the ring inserted through the ball. Once the glue has cured you can paint the whole assembly gold/brass.

I secured the ring assembly to the center hole with a size 6 screw from behind.

At one end I punched a 3/16" hole about 2" from the last rhinestone to install the buckle. Then I used the smaller punch to secure it with a rivet. At the other end, beginning about 1-1/2" from the last rhinestone I punched 4 3/16" holes to make the collar adjustable.

ETA:
Stainless Town has both sizes of Lock Washers (for pennies each), and the flat screws that fit into the knurled nut, which you can find at The Nutty Company.

Columbia's Collar (Research)

2011-04-21T17:47:00.009-05:00

Because its edges are stitched I think it's probably vinyl or low-grade leather collar. It looks about 5/8" to 3/4" wide. The rhinestones appear to be all clear, but very reflective (especially in the lab scene). The brass findings behind the stones look similar to "spider settings", but I haven't had any look finding a perfect match. You could use drops of craft paint, miniature brad tacks, something from the hardware store or brass colored scrapbook studs.

They look like they are spaced about an inch apart (from stone to stone) and there are 5 on each side of the brass ring. It buckles in back.

You could easily convert a dog collar, purse strap or belt. Looking at the profile of her neck, it doesn't look like it's very thick.

Frank's Dinner Corset

2011-04-18T16:37:00.004-05:00

Parts of this are pretty straight forward, but I had to custom-design the embroidered overlay and corset which turned out to be a pretty extensive task! I'm considering selling the overlay separate for people who want to use it on their existing dinner tops.

The chiffon base has shoulder pads and the is neck trimmed with narrow double-fold bias tape. The back opening has a tulle overlay before adding the buttons and corresponding elastic loops. The armpits and left elbow are "torn" (okay, I used scissors).

The embroidered overlay is metallic silver thread on black tulle, which was then applied to the bodice with spray adhesive and then tacked down by hand.

The corset was custom-drafted. It laces up the back but also features a side zipper. I cannibalized a velvet skirt for the fabric and flat-lined it with muslin. The eyelets in back were painted black.

Modifying Space Boots

2011-04-14T12:17:00.006-05:00

I have revised my space boot method - please visit my new blog entry here: http://columbiascloset.blogspot.com/2011/05/boot-toppers-revised.html

I can usually find a good base for about $40 on eBay. Ideally you want a black patent leather ankle boot with stiletto heels that has a center seam running all the way down the middle. But if you can't find that, aim for something with a pointed toe and a straight top.

I made my points out of 2-way stretch black vinyl and silver spandex - the forgiveness of the stretch is what will make them easy to work with. After you've sewn the black and silver points together and clipped the points and turns, you can turn it right-side-out and you'll probably want to steam them flat (with a pressing cloth!).

Now you're ready to attach the topper to the boots. With e6000 (or your epoxy of choice) apply the wrong (inside) of the vinyl to the outside of the boot. Yes, there will be a seam, but it's not going to be noticeable. Do not secure the silver fabric yet. Go slow - I recommend only securing a couple inches at a time and waiting for it to dry before you proceed.

Then I took some 16 gauge craft wire and bent it into the same zig-zag shape (but rounded the cut ends so they wouldn't poke through). I put a dab of e6000 at the top of each 'point' before inserting them inside the fabric.

When the points are secured, you can begin gluing the silver fabric to the inside of the boot. Careful not to obstruct the zipper. Once it's set, you can bend the 'leaves' accordingly.

I've added my zig-zag pattern to the Pattern Page, and you can see the finished boots in my original Space Boot entry.

Ron Maxwell Approved!

2011-04-06T09:08:00.003-05:00

Designed by Dana S. and embroidered by yours truly. You know that mystery patch on the back of Frank's jacket? This is probably what it was! Or at least, what it should be. These will be available this weekend at the 4711 convention in Atlantic City!

Floorshow Garter Belt

2011-04-03T22:30:00.004-05:00

I used a heavy (bottom weight), 2-way stretch satin for this. There are two elastic straps in back - it just pulls on. The garter straps are 1/2" elastic with pleated, wire metallic red ribbon - and they still have a little stretch in them. I'll have a couple to sell at con.

Columbia Top Hat Raffle!

2011-04-02T14:59:00.001-05:00

Stop by my costume booth at the 4711 con and enter to win a Gold Sequin Top Hat! It's free to enter with any purchase made at my booth OR you can buy tickets for $1/entry. Online purchases are not eligible.

Raffle is for the actual hat shown in the photo (only the background of this image has been modified). The hat will be on display at my booth.

The hat is approximately 23" in circumference, but can be sized down precisely with adhesive hat foam strips (complimentary).

The winner will be notified at the time specified by their method of choice (call, text or e-mail) and will have 1 hour to respond before another name is selected.

Prize is not exchangeable. Not all gold sequin fabrics are the same - this one is a littler darker than some (more gold, less yellow).

Garter Belt (Research)

2011-03-27T22:06:00.004-05:00

I suspect the garter belt is some sort of (semi?) spandex satin. It doesn't look as stretchy as swimwear, but it's not the same satin as the corsets. I've seen another photo of Columbia in floorshow where hers looks stretched, too.

As for the straps, my best guess is that the red is pleated before being sewn onto (what is presumably) elastic. At least that's the method I'm going to experiment with first. I have a few more screen caps from the pool scene, and those definitely look pleated.

Modifying A Tailcoat Pattern

2011-03-21T17:29:00.004-05:00

The closest pattern I prefer is McCall's 8701 (out of print, but still easy to find). It looks like a lot, but it's really quite workable.

Take the notches out of the collar, and (if you like) go ahead and widen them. Just draw your new shape right onto the pattern (and don't forget to include a seam allowance). Modify your lapel lining to match.
Reduce the tails and curve the ends. I recommend just bag lining them individually before attaching them to the jacket.
Remove the extra seam in the sleeve so that it's just one piece. You can literally overlap that pattern pieces and tape them together as one piece. You could also just use a basic sleeve from another pattern you like.
Add a center back seam (don't forget to add your seam allowance).
Shorten the torso a little, There are lines where to lengthen/shorten the front and back pieces.

So even with all those changes, here's why I like this pattern:

The way the (black sequin) lapel opens onto the front and still has the gold sequin underneath.
The way the notched collar is faked anyhow, so there's no real piece to account for, just the shape.
The easiness to shorten the torso (if needed).
The easiness to modify the back and tails.

Dr. Scott's Note

2011-03-09T15:46:00.001-06:00

Shawn Hall, from the Formal Dress Optional cast in Newark, DE sent me a link to his website with an amazing reproduction of Dr. Scott's "Eddie" note. Check out Shawn's site and his artwork!

Crim Ascot (Research)

2011-03-09T15:36:00.002-06:00

I'm actually going to back-date this post so it appears later than my project post - but the best shot I can get from the film is around his speech "On a night out..."

You can clearly see how it lays around his neck, and the double panels and tassels. You get a general idea of the design, but not much individual placement of things.

My other photo is courtesy of Larry. It's what my pattern is based off, though there are still some areas I couldn't figure out. But what you can see clearly are the seed beads along the bottom, the tassel placement and most of the rhinestone embellishments. I believe his ascot has soutache stitched down, but that's a pretty lofty venture on velvet. I think you could use any number of methods to achieve a comparable look from stage.

Bradwinkle Patch

2011-03-08T17:35:00.004-06:00

Jenny has been one of my biggest supporters over the past decade, but I've never had the chance to meet her. There are so many people I'm looking forward to meeting at the 4.7.11 con next month, and Jenny has to be there! When Liz Beaux posted on her LJ that she was going to make this happen I offered to help, too! 70% of the sales of this patch will go to help fund Jenny's 4.7.11 trip. Visit the "in stock" page of my website to orders your!

Bert's Boutonniere

2011-03-05T17:35:00.005-06:00

Later this month my cast, The Beautiful Creatures, will be performing Shock Treatment for the first time. Bert's boutonniere is pretty straight-forward like Brad's - and I found the black floral tape at Michael's. The rose was partially open - turns out there's not a huge selection of black silk roses. And like Brad's, I just set a metal pin back on the wrapped stems. I may shorten the stem the next time I make one - what do you think?

Space Suit Lower Back (detail)

2011-02-14T23:55:00.003-06:00

I can't tell exactly what is going on the back of the space suits - you only get a couple seconds to see it when Riff approaches Dr. Scott. But it definitely looks dimensional and somewhat separate. So I created the piece and lined it separately before sewing it by hand onto the back. The top side is left open, but the other edges follow the grid.

Space Belt Buckle.jpg

2011-02-02T21:13:00.007-06:00

Mitered wood dowels covered with several layers of fiberglass for a solid, hard shine. Buckle is backed with a cotton lining and strips of velcro and the belting is covered with a layer of clear vinyl that hangs over 1/4" past both edges (very hard to see in this photo) and has rows of metallic gold stitching. The dowels are 5" tall, and the buckle is 5-3/4" wide.

In the second photo showing the back with the velcro strips, you can also see the clear vinyl easier - and the belt is just tucked under a strip of velcro before being stitched down.

When stitching the metallic gold thread onto the vinyl you'll need a teflon foot. The thread will break occasionally, but I had the best results when maintaining a very slow and consistent speed - no jerky starts and stops along the way.

Space Belt Dowels

2011-01-23T16:35:00.008-06:00

I tried so many other materials for the mitered half-round dowels (including foam rods and hair rollers), but ended up using wood. My husband cut them because when I tried to cut them on the miter saw it made a lot of smoke and now I'm not allowed to use it. I coated them with 3 layers of fiberglass mixed with 2 shades of gold and a sprinkle of silver Jacquard medium. They clink now and feel nothing like wood. All I have left to do is make the piece they attach to - like the belting but wider.

Frank Embroidery

2011-01-06T15:54:00.005-06:00

Here is the progress I've made on the embroidered piece of Frank's dinner corset. It's an overlay of netting, which as it turns out is not easy to embroider on. I've tried a variety of stabilizers and metallic thread combinations. The flower (chrysanthemum?) has 9 petals, and my design was copied from the flower located on the center front of the corset, where the velvet ends and the chiffon top begins. The Anal Retentive Costume List has some amazing photos of the corset for research.

Rhinestones On Leather

2010-12-28T14:55:00.006-06:00

Pushing rhinestones even through thin leather can be a struggle. Especially 28 of them. Mark your placement (in reverse) on the back side of the leather. I recommend doing the rhinestones before adding the fleece lining to the leather.

Indent the leather with the prongs, but then go back and poke holes all the way through with a sharp pin. This will make pushing the prongs through much easier. Also, if you can find them, I recommend the rhinestone holders with long prongs.

I'm using size 7mm rhinestones and size 30 holders.

I secure the stones with a drop of Aleene's Jewel-It glue. Wipe off any excess after placing the stone and let it dry at least an hour before messing with the prongs.

Try to bend the entire prong inwards, down to the tips - you should be able to run your finger over it without feeling poked. Prongs not bent all the way down are likely to snag on... just about everything.

Riff Raff's Vest (Research)

2010-12-21T13:06:00.007-06:00

Two shots of the vest - buttoned in different holes. It's a common style and the textured fabric is called pique. The Tuxx Man sells them on eBay for about $32, or you can make one using McCall 4321 (you can also use the cummerbund pattern for Brad). I prefer paint or even nail polish to make the blood stains - but anything would work.

The shot on the right (from The Time Warp) also shows his suspenders.

Columbia's Floorshow Corset (Research)

2010-12-20T17:34:00.004-06:00

There appears to be 14, maybe 16 segments (7 or 8 on each side) of the corset - though my personal experience making corsets suggest it's probably only 5 panels, and the additional boning channels give the appearance of more seams.

I've heard the corsets were worn backwards/upside down - and you can clearly see the metal busk on Columbia's back.

Her corset ties at the top, though the others all tie at the bottom.

Brad Bow Tie

2010-12-02T11:47:00.004-06:00

This is the current fabric I have for bow ties. It's missing the blue and white stripes (but at least there is no green). Mostly, I like the scale of the plaid - it's not too small. I think it looks balanced and appropriate next to the cummerbund. There's a layer of tulle inside each layer to help it stay "full" and semi-stiff.

Patch - Gold Eagle

2010-11-12T10:34:00.005-06:00

This is a replica of the Eagle patch on Frank's left sleeve, minus the nazi swastika. The embroidered area is about 4" across.

I actually make two versions - one with the swastika and one without.

Frank's Leather Jacket (Research)

2010-11-11T18:20:00.004-06:00

This screen capture shows off quite a few patches. Currently, I'm working on a non-swastika version of the eagle on his left sleeve - which looks to me to be non-metallic gold.

This jacket style has been reproduced by the original manufacturer - Lewis Leathers - they are known for their red quilted lining. Look for the Plainsman, Style #393. The fringe will need to be removed from the front and back (as Frank''s was).

Magenta's Peignoir

2010-10-30T10:56:00.003-05:00

I used a vintage peignoir pattern and only modified the neckline. The shoulders are fitted, but the rest of the sleeve is loose. It's about knee-length. The marabou was tea-stained to get the tan color - you could also use peach dye if you prefer a pinker tone. Chiffon ribbon is pleated into the neckline, and it closes with a snap.

Fiberglass Lightning Bolt

2010-10-25T03:42:00.008-05:00

My awesome friend Alex has been teaching me how to work with fiberglass. I used this method to make an oversized belt buckle on a pirate costume, and about 30 seconds later realized I could apply it to some Rocky costumes. I can't wait to attempt the space suit buckle out of it.

The materials are pretty easy to come by - but the smell is vile. Worse than walking into an acrylic nail salon. You should probably wear a mask, protective gloves and eyewear. And you should probably do this outside or someplace well ventilated. The fiberglass resin is from the hardware store - and it comes with a tube of hardener. By itself, the resin will never harden.

I also added some pearl black jacquard pigment from the art supply store - you should see some of the metallic colors it comes in! Anyhow, you mix that right in with the resin. Once you add the hardener you have maybe 10 minutes to work with it. Sponge brushes are ideal, but a soft brush will work, too. For the most part, the mixture is self-leveling.

I applied it onto pre-cut shapes of 1/8" foam from the craft store (a.k.a. "Foamies"). I actually used the foam with an adhesive backing so the bolt would stay flat during the process - the fiberglass has a tendency to make the foam shape curl. It was dry to the touch in about an hour and then I did a second coat. I did the same on the back side and stuck a pin-back into the wet fiberglass.

Rock N Roll Patches In Stock!

2010-10-15T16:53:00.005-05:00

I had these screen printed, and then they are edged in gold and trimmed with pinking sheers. They are a little more than 4" x 4" and they can be glued or stitched on. Limited qty. but if there is an interest I will have more made. Just click on the "In Stock" tab at the top of my webpage to purchase.

Brad Cummerbund & Bow Tie (Research)

2010-10-11T00:26:00.004-05:00

This is a great shot of the (unmatched) bow tie and cummerbund Brad wears. I've never found the plaid on the bow tie (notice there is no green in it), but I had an idea for expanding my search on the black & red cummerbund plaid - search for black & white also because it can be dyed red!
Also a pretty good shot of Brad's shawl-collar tux and boutonniere.

Plaid Cummerbund

2010-10-09T19:28:00.008-05:00

Here's my first test run of the cummerbund pattern with the new plaid fabric. It has four pleats - which should be worn facing up. Rumor has it the pleats face up so a gentleman could tuck his ticket stubs or cash in the folds. Or maybe a snack for later.

Brad Jacket

2010-10-08T18:52:00.008-05:00

This is from a modified vintage pattern I found on eBay - I had to add the front yoke, add the cuffs, create the welt pockets and insert the knit ribbing in the side. The yoke, patch and welt pockets were all added before lining the jacket.

The knit ribbing inserted on the sides was done after the jacket hem was finished. The ribbing had to be dyed brown because I wasn't able to find it locally. You could actually apply it to any off-the-rack jacket, too.

Frank Gloves (Research)

2010-10-08T07:24:00.006-05:00

This is the best screen capture I could get of Frank's wrist. There seems to be 3 buttons of some kind on the inside of the wrist. The seam runs down the pinky side of the gloves - common construction method and easy to find in patterns. You'll want a fabric with some stretch, but it doesn't need a lot. Vogue 8311 and Vintage Vogue 8608 both have nice styles, but neither are long enough. You can find glittery fabric pretty easily around Halloween, or you might get lucky at a thrift shop finding a glittery top to cut up. Knits may curl a little when you cut the fingers, but shouldn't unravel. Make sure you secure all your stitches if you cut the fingers off anything.

Magenta's Dress Pleats (Research)

2010-09-26T10:44:00.008-05:00

Because details are so hard to see on black, there aren't many places in the film where you can really see Magenta's pleats. There are 3 on her sleeve that appear to end before the shoulder seam, and 3 down each side of the front.

You can also see that her white collar isn't completely attached in front.
Also notice that her sleeve stops right above the elbow; longer than your average "short sleeve" dress.

Columbia Shorts

2010-09-22T16:59:00.004-05:00

Finished pair of Columbia shorts with satin ribbon. They are high-waisted and the band is completely hidden by the bustier. The only time you can actually see the waistband is during "Touch-a Touch Me" and they are hanging in the back of the room. The cuffs are wider (and split) on the outside of the legs.

Slingshot & Skull (Research)

2010-09-21T23:59:00.011-05:00

These are the best grabs I got of Eddie's Milbro slingshot and skull keychain. The skull definitely has red (rhinestone?) eyes but it's easier to see in motion as they sparkle red. I don't know the style of keychain, but the ring opens (to attach to the slingshot) and has a springy chain (about 2" long?).
I've found some excellent skull keychains on eBay for $3.00, but if you're really picky you may want to trade-out the ring style. You can also get Milbro slingshots for about $30.00 from Acorn Belts & Buckles.

ETA: Totally forgot, but you'd probably do better to get the whole skeleton keychain because you'll need the arm and leg bits to put on the back of the jacket! Thanks Scott! I found skeletons with red eyes for about $1 on eBay (still the wrong ring style).

Frank's Leather Jacket

2010-09-16T14:18:00.005-05:00

I finally have all the patches I'm able to make on my "Demo" jacket. Some probably aren't worth listing because you can still find them (and I did not make the Triumph on the back). Prices for the patches run $7.ºº to $11.ºº and I will discount on multiple orders. 8 more photos are in my Flickr account - check them out!

When I split the seams up the back of the sleeves to add the fringe, I was able to stitch on all the patches pretty easily. The leather for the fringe came off the sleeves of a converted Eddie jacket. The flag on the back (which I know is not screen accurate) is actually an iron-on printed off my home computer.

This jacket style has been reproduced by the original manufacturer - Lewis Leathers - they are known for their red quilted lining. Look for the Plainsman, Style #393. The fringe will need to be removed from the front and back (as Frank''s was).

Brad Bow Tie (Tartan)

2010-09-14T13:17:00.006-05:00

This is my best guess at the plaid of Brad's bow tie. I may need to fatten some of the lines up. The problem is I haven't found any cost effective places to get it printed (most have a hefty set up fee). But I might try experimenting with some of those print-it-yourself fabrics on a home printer becauseI don't need very large pieces to make a bow tie.

Gold Leather Shorts

2010-09-06T14:26:00.003-05:00

I really wanted to get someone to model these for the photo, but being a holiday weekend I couldn't get anyone on short notice. The gold leather really is easy to work with, with the exceptions of the rhinestone holders (I gave up).

I used a layer of fusible fleece on the inside to give it a little more modesty, though I figure most performers wear their floorshow undies with them, too.

They look like gold diapers, don't they? :)

Rocky Shorts Pattern

2010-09-05T12:31:00.015-05:00

First draft of my Rocky Shorts pattern. This pattern is designed to be used with a non-stretch fabric. You can find metallic gold leather on eBay; you want something thin (for making gloves and purses). I used 7 sq feet of Italian lambskin (~$35.00).

Leather doesn't stretch (much). Since the waist has to be pulled up over the butt, there's an elastic casing to close the gap. This is a very fitted garment - MAKE A TEST OUT OF SCRAP FABRIC FIRST!! I make no guarantees or promises this will fit. You may have to make your own adjustments.
Download Options
Size 30
Size 32

The waist and leg holes can be finished off with a separate elastic casing made from the leather (screen accurate) or by using single-fold, flesh-colored bias tape turned to the inside.

Frank's Corset Pattern

2010-08-26T10:04:00.004-05:00

This is version 1.0 because it is my first attempt at sharing a pattern. My drafting skills are a little rough around the edges, and I downright stink at trying to write out directions. You'll need a little bit of sewing know-how (how to use bias tape, and how to install a zipper). All seam allowances given are ½". The top edge is designed to be left raw to expose the lining, and I would just stay-stitch that. The center front and bottom edges should be edged with double-fold bias tape. Boning channels can be created in any seam by stitching the seam allowance down and inside the center front channel. You can treat the fabric and lining as one - you can even cut them out together. You will of course, need to cut 2 of every piece. I strongly recommend making a mock-up out of some scrap fabric so you can work out any adjustments or alterations.

Download options:
Size 38
Size 40

For about $4 you can submit your .pdf online to Kinko's to be printed full size. If you encounter any errors, or have any thoughts on how I can improve this design please feel free to contact me. Eventually I would like to make more of my patterns available and offer more sizes.

Rocky Wrap Tutorial

2010-08-22T18:36:00.005-05:00

Finding a suitable fabric is tricky. You want something thin enough to maneuver around the cords, but not transparent. I used a satin cord in the tutorial because it slides out easier.

Materials used:
Muslin arm pad with fusible fleece layer for stability (18" x 3")
Satin cord (not screen accurate)
Length of 3" wide knit fabric

Rocky Wraps (Research)

2010-08-22T15:42:00.006-05:00

Prompted by a thread in the LJ community, here's my thoughts on Rocky's wraps. (I don't play Rocky, so please feel free to share your tried and true methods in the comments!)

I can definitely see two cords running down his arm - and he has two cords in his right hand. I can't tell if the top end is tied to something else, but whatever the case Magenta and Columbia use scissors to free it. I think you could just tie it (if you don't want to replace the severed cords every show).

He also has an extra piece of fabric under the strips of cord - presumably to hide any gaps from the lacing and prevent any rope burn.

The fabric is probably some kind of knit - and knits are great because they're form-fitting and don't fray.

Magenta's Crestina (aka Maid Cap)

2010-08-20T23:13:00.006-05:00

Starting with Ruth's recommendation on the Anal Retentive Costume List I cut a 5" circle of my apron fabric (100% cotton curtain sheer) and added lace trim. Create your tucks (which will distort the circle slightly) and press.

For the bow I used a 25" length of fabric by 3½" wide. Sewn into a tube with ¼" seam allowance, with the corners mitered. You can trim the seam allowance narrower if you prefer. Tie into bow (this may take several tries to get the ends even) and secure.

If you prefer a narrower/smaller/shorter bow just adjust your measurements accordingly. The wig on this mannequin is shoulder length so it's not a great comparison. You can sew in a hair comb under the front, or just secure with some bobby pins through the holes in the lace.

Sequin Bow Tie

2010-08-20T15:04:00.015-05:00

Supplies:
2 Satin Rectangles (5" x 8")
2 Sequin Rectangles (5" x 8")
2 Buckram Rectangles (5" x 8")
15" strip of black sequin elastic trim
or
5/8" Elastic 15" or longer (allow 2" to overlap)
Black satin cut 25" x 2"
2" of black velcro

I prefer a satin band to the sequins so that it won't chafe my neck or interact with the tailcoat's sequin lapel.

Shape your Satin and Sequin rectangles about 1" in on the long sides to reduce the bulk that will be gathered in the middle. Trim your Buckram rectangles more severely on the long sides.

Sew each rectangle set right sides together, then turn out. You can either leave an opening on the edge, or even cut a slit in the center back of the Satin. Have patience with the buckram when turning out.

For the neck band you can either trim your sequin elastic accordingly, or create a satin version as follows:
With the black satin, create your elastic casing. I used a 1/4" seam allowance to fit 5/8" elastic. Turn tube right side out and pull the elastic through. Turn your ends in, and stitch on the velcro.

Finish your bow tie by gathering the two pink bows and the neck band with a strip of the pink sequin fabric. The easiest way is to hold it tight and stitch it by hand.

Duct Tape Pattern

2010-08-17T13:39:00.005-05:00

I've yet to come across a suitable pattern to create a Frank corset. I think his is actually a medical corset worn backwards. Can't find those very often, either.
You'll need a friend (that you trust) to help you with this. First, cover your torso with a plastic bag. Next, using strips of duct tape, cover the torso - snugly. If you raise your arms above your head, you're going to reduce your chest size.

Draw on the corset and any seams you want to make a note of. Make a mistake? Slap on some more tape and draw it again. Then carefully cut the duct tape form off.

Cut out your pieces and flatten them on some scrap fabric. Carefully trace the pattern shapes and add seam allowance where necessary.
Corset in a hurry? Replace the plastic bag with a tight-fitting cotton t-shirt and repeat the same duct tape process - using black duct tape! Trim out your design without creating any seams, split it up the front, and use a hole punch to make the eyelet holes. The cotton shirt will make a comfortable lining and won't unravel.

DIY Frank Pearls

2010-08-16T22:01:00.010-05:00

This one's pretty easy once you get all the jewelry pieces... and maybe a power drill. The only problem is you'll probably be left with an abundance of extra stuff. If you're fond of thrift shops, you might be able to recycle something with similar findings.

Jumbo mardi gras beads are abundant and cheap - and usually long enough to make at least 3 necklaces for you and your friends. You'll want to cut a strand about 16" long for an average neck. Then (here's where you might want to drill a pilot hole), I attach some small eyehole screws (from the hardware store) into each end of the strand.

And the rest is pretty straight-forward. Choose a clasp you feel comfortable using and a bit of chain (I cut mine at 4").

DIY Lab Mask

2010-08-13T16:50:00.006-05:00

Click on image to view 'Original' size to download.
This is my lab mask. The "point" goes down, chinwards. The only trouble I've had is finding the right shade of pink vinyl, and I recommend something with a small amount of 2-way stretch. I also recommend making a test pattern to figure out the size you need - either with scrap fabric, felt, or even paper. In fact, if you're less concerned about accuracy, felt makes a pretty good substitute - it's easy to breathe through, the edges don't fray, and easier to find than pink vinyl.

Janet Pink Dress

2010-08-05T18:06:00.008-05:00

This should be easier than it is - but it's a pain to find a usable pattern, the right size gingham and the right size buckle. It's also impossible to find the *perfect* scalloped trim and the right flower buttons. I used to be able to find those buckles at thrift stores in abundance. All that aside, at least the pink gabardine is still in abundance.
I actually have a better time with the Proposal Suit than I do this dress. Weird. The buttons are 2" apart - at least that part works out well!

TriBSA Patch

2010-08-02T22:49:00.004-05:00

Latest addition to the patch family - the gold thread is metallic, though the camera flash kind of flattens the effect. It's 4" x 3" on black felt. I have a few for sale and ready to ship - just click on the link at the top of the page!

Lightning Bolts

2010-07-26T18:52:00.006-05:00

This is pretty straight forward if you can cut a straight line. Glue your shiny vinyl onto a sheet of 1/8" foamie with spray glue (I recommend the heavy-duty 3M stuff). In this instance, I'm using some pretty heavy-duty black vinyl - like the kind a vintage diner would upholster their booths with. I also prefer this vinyl because its cloth backing will adhere well to the foamie.

Trace your pattern onto the back of foamie (my bolt is about 3½" high and 2" wide). It's actually Ruth's design. Just make sure you reverse your pattern when you draw on the backside, so it'll be the right direction on the vinyl side! Trim very carefully - long fluid cuts, not chewed-up short snips.

Glue your pin-back on and you're done! I like e6000 - it gets between the holes of the pin-back real good.

Space Glove (WIP)

2010-07-20T15:05:00.014-05:00

It's pretty easy to find silver costume gloves, but if you want to make your own, most of the major pattern companies have glove patterns - choose a basic style suitable for 2-way stretch fabric. Silver spandex is easy to find around Halloween time. You'll need a machine that can handle a very narrow seam allowance with precision.

I design my gloves to connect with the gauntlet by velcro on the back of the hand - you could also use a large snap. Once the gauntlet is connected to the back of the hand, it will feel wobbly, but stay very much in place.

For the gauntlet I cut a 13" x 13" square (I would go a little larger for men) of stiff vinyl and cotton lining. Then one corner is reduced to accommodate the hand.

Sew the velcro (or a snap) in place to the lining. Then with right sides together, sew up the shortened corner and turn right side out. Press (with a press cloth - never let the iron touch the vinyl). This will give you a finished edge around the wrist opening. Apply the gold extra-wide double fold bias tape across the long sides (sew or glue). Sew the gauntlet on the remaining shortened sides to make the "tube".

Triton & Royal Enfield Patches

2010-07-17T03:17:00.006-05:00

These are the final versions of these 3 patches. Metallic gold thread is a TOTAL pain in the ass. The Royal Enfields are both 3" across.

The Triton patch is 3¼. I'm working with relative sizing - mostly from Mick Rock photos. Embroidery "blanks" are typically either 3" or 3½" (75mm or 88mm). I couldn't make up my mind on the Triton, so I split the difference.

Tailcoat Maintenance

2010-07-12T13:50:00.010-05:00

This is a very common issue with the tailcoats - the fabric doesn't hold up for heavy use. But it's also super easy to fix. The sequins are attached to the fabric with a series of chain stitches. Once a thread snags the whole thing just pulls right out because there is no bobbin thread securing it. And because each running stitch secures more than one zig-zagging strand of sequins it's like a domino effect if you don't catch it right away.
Trim away any loose strands of thread - they will only snag more sequins and create a bigger problem area. The sleeves are the most common area where the sequins come off - probably snagging against the rest of the costume, or other people.

Any fabric glue will work - I'm using Aleene's Fabric Fusion. I just lay a line of glue right down the "zip" lines - following the stitch holes in the fabric. Secure the side strands first, and then carefully lay down the loose strand in a zig-zag pattern - crossing both lines of glue. Let it air dry - do not add heat to speed it up (it'll warp the sequins).

Denton Patch

2010-07-08T23:41:00.008-05:00

This is a replica of the Denton patch made on my super-mega embroidery machine. The fabric is a poly-cotton twill, and there is a light iron-on backing to help position it on the jacket (but it still needs to be stitched down for permanence). It's 3½" across and I usually have these "in stock"!

Magenta's Crestina (Research)

2010-06-30T00:09:00.007-05:00

This is the best screen shot I have of the maid cap (aka crestina). I make mine from the same fabric as the apron, though the lace trim can be tricky if you're picky! There's a clearer shot of the lace in the Mick Rock coffee table book. I'll be posting my own photos and methods of making this soon.

Floorshow Gauntlet

2010-06-27T11:11:00.006-05:00

There are a lot of stretchy-sequin fabrics that look great. I used the taffeta-backed stuff with a satin lining. The top is your bicep measurements +2" and the bottom is the measurement around your hand (not fisted) +1". With a ¼" seam allowance you'll have just enough ease for a snug gauntlet that you can move in. I split the opening about 2" and added a hook & eye to make it easier getting over the hand. I use bias tape to make the elastic casing at the top (hidden by the feathers). The feathers are just tacked on in 4 separate places - they do not need to be sewn all the way around - leave some slack between points of tacking.

Brad's Boutonniere

2010-06-25T15:15:00.002-05:00

This is an easy project, but you'll probably have to buy way more than you need to make just one. The fern leaves usually come in a big frond at the craft store, and the pin back usually comes in a package of 10. You'll also need a roll of florist tape. Hey, at least you can make a second one for Ralph!

My fern leaves are a bit oversized, but they look fine on stage. It's really up to you how many craft stores you want to drive to trying to find the 'perfect' fern leaves.

I trimmed some of the fern leaves off the stem to wrap. I usually do a preliminary wrap with the florist tape before adding the pin back. The florist tape will stick to itself when you pull it taut. You'll want the pin back near the top of the stem cluster, point down - and you know me and my e6000 - glue that thing down first! Then continue wrapping.

Rocky Pillow Case

2010-06-24T08:31:00.008-05:00

This is for the person who has everything. You can adapt an existing pillow sham or just make your own. Standard size pillows measure 20 by 26 inches.

I printed a giant "R" off my computer (Roundhand font works well). Mine is about 9" tall. I traced my "R" onto a prepped piece of gold lamé fabric backed with light fusible interfacing (never let the iron touch the lamé directly, always use a press cloth). Cut out the design and position it on your pillow case. I used a bit of light glue to secure it's placement, then I went around all the edges with a zig-zag stitch using matching thread.

The trim can be pleated or gathered around the edge. A 4 to 5" wide strip of fabric folded in half lengthwise will look good. The length of your trim should be 1.5 to 2 times the circumference of your pillow case (depending on how full you want the pleats or ruffles).

Space Boots

2010-06-22T21:45:00.005-05:00

With a little patience you can find patent ankle boots on eBay for under $50. You'll need a small amount of black vinyl and some shiny silver fabric (I used what I had leftover from the space gloves). I used 16 gauge craft wire bent like a zig zag inside the cuffs - bending them out to curve will also help the wire stay in place. I used e-6000 glue to attach the vinyl cuff to the top of the ankle boot.

Tiger Patch for Frank Jacket

2010-06-20T18:07:00.002-05:00

This is my final version of the Tiger patch embroidered on felt (100% polyester). It measures 5½" across by 5" vertical. The Triumph patch below the Tiger is still easy to find. The "Royal Enfield" lettering behind the tiger is just acrylic craft paint. The Union Jack flag is actually an iron-on that I printed off my computer.

I think the Tiger is probably related to Triumph motorcycles - who had a series of Tiger model bikes. I've seen similar Triumph designs that incorporate the Tiger over the Union Jack flag.

There are a couple quick opportunities to catch this patch in the film.

Rocky's Gold Shorts

2010-06-18T15:53:00.012-05:00

Stretch lamé is a suitable alternative to leather - and easier on the wallet. You can use any mens brief as your pattern - just add a dart in the front crotch seam, and diagonal seams across the cheeks.

I added 1¼" wide straps on the sides and center back. Be sure to secure them when you create the elastic casings.

To create the elastic casings in the waist and leg holes I used flesh-colored, single-fold bias tape - make sure you stretch the fabric a little as you apply it. Applying to the right side of the gold fabric I used a ¼" seam allowance then turned it to the inside to stitch. Insert ½" elastic into the casings (adjust to fit).

I recommend securing the rhinestones with a dab of jewel-glue. Once the glue is dry it'll be easier to maneuver the rhinestone mounting from behind.

Detailed photos of the original shorts can be found on the Anal Retentive Costume List.

Rocky Shorts (Research)

2010-06-14T19:59:00.001-05:00

Good view of the front of Rocky's gold shorts. You can see the center dart seam in the crotch, and one of the side straps. The shorts are a thin leather and are padded on the inside (so we don't see any extra details).

The back of the shorts have diagonal seams across the cheeks, and a third strap runnin' down the crack. You can also see both side straps clearly here.

Space Gauntlet

2010-06-08T15:17:00.001-05:00

These are actually pretty easy - the silver gloves don't need to be very long, and you can put a snap or velcro tab on the back of the hand to secure the gauntlet. They will feel floppy when you wear them because they stick out so far from the arm.

Janet's Pink Dress (Research)

2010-06-04T22:17:00.002-05:00

Because of the trim, I previously assumed that Janet's dress had a princess seam there. Upon further research, I think the trim is superficial because I can see bust darts on the sides. Bust darts usually accompany waist darts, too - which may be hiding under the trim. McCall's #2718 has a sloper (shell) that will work great for this top style, but you'll still need to adapt the bottom of the dress into a retro A-line style. You'll also need to move the closing from the center front to the center back (and adjust your seam allowances accordingly).

Magenta's Peignoir (Research)

2010-05-21T11:26:00.001-05:00

A quick search on eBay for peignoir sets and you'll find two common lengths: the full length (often with long sleeves), and the baby-doll length, which often has added trim/lace/ruffles around a voluminous hem. Sleeve lengths vary, but they all close at the center top with a button or bow.

Even though you can't see Magenta's full robe, my best guess is that it's a baby-doll style peignoir. The sleeves and back are transparent, but the front is not.

Watching the film frame by frame, my best guess is that the sleeves are about elbow length (when her arms are down), it's open in the front, there's some trim around the neckline and an additional ribbon/bow on the sleeve right above the marabou trim.

If you can't find beige marabou trim, you can stain it with coffee or tea. Rinse thoroughly then stick it in your dryer. It will come out fluffy and beige - with a hint of caffeine.